1757. Tuesday, May 31.—I breakfasted at Dumfries and spent an hour with a poor backslider of London, who had been for some years settled there. We then rode through an uncommonly Pleasant country (so widely distant is common report from truth) to Thorny Hill, two or three miles from the Duke of Queensborough’s seat; an ancient and noble pile of building, delightfully situated on the side of a pleasant and fruitful hill. But it gives no pleasure to its owner, for he does not even behold it with his eyes. Surely this is a sore evil under the sun; a man has all things and enjoys nothing.
We rode afterward partly over and partly between some of the finest mountains, I believe, in Europe; higher than most, if not than any, in England, and clothed with grass to the very top. Soon after four we came to Lead Hill, a little town at the foot of the mountains, wholly inhabited by miners.
In Glasgow Cathedral
Wednesday, June 1.—We rode on to Glasgow; a mile short of which we met Mr. Gillies, riding out to meet us.
In the evening the tent (so they call a covered pulpit) was Placed in the yard of the poorhouse, a very large and commodious Place. Fronting the pulpit was the infirmary, with most of their manner of baptizing. I believe this removed much prejudice.
Friday, 3.—At seven the congregation was increased, and earnest attention sat on every face. In the afternoon we walked to the college and saw the new library, with the collection of pictures. Many of them are by Raphael, Rubens, Van Dyck, and other eminent hands; but they have not room to place them to advantage, their whole building being very small.
Saturday, 4—l walked through all parts of the old cathedral, a very large and once beautiful structure; I think, more lofty than that at Canterbury and nearly the same length and breadth. We then went up the main steeple, which gave us a fine prospect both of the city and the adjacent country. A more fruitful and better cultivated plain is scarcely to be seen in England. Indeed nothing is wanting but more trade (which would, naturally bring more people), to make a great part of Scotland no way inferior to the best counties in England.
I was much pleased with the seriousness of the people in the evening; but still I prefer the English congregation. I cannot be reconciled to men sitting at prayer, or covering their heads while they are singing praise to God.
Wesley Sings a Scotch Psalm
Thursday, 9.—Today, Douglas , the play which has made so much noise, was put into my hands. I was astonished to find it is one of the finest tragedies I have ever read. What pity that a few lines were not left out, and that it was ever acted at Edinburghl
Friday, 10.—l found myself much out of order, till the flux stopped at once, without any medicine. But being still weak, and the sun shining extremely hot, I was afraid I should not be able to go round by Kelso. Vain fear! God took care, for this also. The wind, which had been full east for several days, turned this morning full west and blew just in our face; about ten the clouds rose and kept us cool till we came to Kelso.
At six, William Coward and I went to the market house. We stayed some time, and neither man, woman, nor child came near us. At length I began singing a Scotch psalm, and fifteen or twenty people came within hearing, but with great circumspection, keeping their distance as though they knew not what might follow. But while I prayed, their number increased; so that in a few minutes there was a pretty large congregation. I suppose the chief men of the town were there; and I spared neither rich nor poor. I almost wondered at myself, it not being usual with me to use so keen and cutting expressions; and I believe many felt that, for all their form, they were but heathens still.
Monday, 13—l proclaimed the love of Christ to sinners, in the market place at Morpeth. Thence we rode to Placey. The society of colliers here may be a pattern to all the societies in England. No person ever misses his band or class; they have no jar of any kind among them but with one heart and one mind “provoke one another to love and to good works.” After preaching I met the society in a room as warm as any in Georgia; this, with the scorching heat of the sun when we rode on, quite exhausted my strength. But after we came to Newcastle I soon recovered and preached with as much ease as in the morning.
Thursday, 16.—In the evening I preached at Sunderland. I then met the society and told them plainly that none could stay with us unless he would part with all sin; particularly, robbing the King, selling or buying run goods, which I could no more suffer than robbing on the highway. This I enforced on every member the next day. A few would not promise to refrain, so these I was forced to cut off. About two hundred and fifty were of a better mind.
Wednesday, 22.—In the evening and the following morning I preached at Chester-on-the-Strate. Observing some very fine, but not very modest, pictures in the parlor where we supped, I desired my companion, when the company was gone, to put them where they could do no hurt. He piled them on a heap in a corner of the room, and they have not appeared since.