In the autumn of 1828 Schleiermacher paid a flying visit to England, by way of the Rhine and Rotterdam, accompanied by Alexander von Forstner, and stayed a few days with his sister and Arndt at Bonn. The following letters were written during his absence on this occasion:—
[CCCCXL.] Bonn, Saturday morning.
Yesterday we dined alone (with the Arndts), and Siegerich1 said a little prayer in the true Arndt style. After dinner we took a nice walk to Blittersdorff, likewise without any addition to our party. Nitzsch was, indeed, to have joined us, but he did not arrive until tea-time. The little flock looked very sweet. Harthmuth (surnamed Sparrow-hawk), and Wilibald, clad in little pink striped frocks, were drawn in a little waggon. The other three, in blue blouses, ran gambolling before us. We revelled for some time in the glorious view across the Rhine, while indulging in pleasant conversation and in a glass of wine and a cup of coffee, and then we strolled slowly back, so as to be home by tea-time, after which we “theologized” for some hours with Nitzsch, who is an excellent and very pleasant man. The next morning we paid our visits, and dined at Sack’s. The people from Siegburg had come over, father,2 mother, and Dora, who had just returned from Kling’s. They brought with them the Niethammers from Munich, who are staying with them; and Nitzsch and Nasse were also among the guests. The mother Jacobi3 won my heart at once with her sweet and hearty manner. We had a good deal of discussion at table. After dinner came the little president4 and Schlegel to return our visit.
In fact, dear mother, the only evil that I have to complain of is, that I shall be so long without accounts from home. May you all be well and happy under the merciful protection of God. Remember me most heartily to all the dear children, and tell them that they are daily before my eyes. From the bottom of my heart I commend you to God. May He be with you and the whole house.
[CCCCXLI.] London, 4th September, Evening.
I must write you a few lines on the first evening of our arrival, my heart’s own wife, and, through you, to all our dear ones, to let you know how very fortunate we have been. When we got into the diligence on Tuesday morning, to proceed to the Hague, we met there an honest paper-merchant from Wesel, with a daughter of fifteen, who had been on board the steamer with us during the latter part of the trip, and who were, like ourselves, economical sight-seers. We made up a party with them at the Hague, and thus escaped with very little expense; and if our sight-seeing was limited, it was by time, and not because of the want of funds. The most interesting sights of all were the town itself, which presents a striking picture of Dutch neatness, and the picture gallery, which, however, we had only time to rush through. Nevertheless, I had leisure to mark many a Rubens, Ruysdael, Van Dyk, Potter, De Steen, Sachtlevens, &c. Of the Italian school there is little or nothing, and of the old Netherland school also very little, and that little not good. Next to these in interest was the Bosch, the Thiergarten of the Hague; but we did not get so far as Huys tot dem Bosch, which one might term its Charlottenburg, but turned off just as it was coming into sight, because we preferred renouncing the inspection of the palace, however beautiful it might be, to giving up the walk to Scheveningen—a Stralau on the Northsea—whither we went to pay our respects to the latter, and to recommend ourselves to its good graces for the morrow. The young maiden, to whom I was obliged to pay court, because Forstner neglected doing so, had never before seen the sea, and I therefore led her far enough out to allow it to moisten the soles of her feet, and presented her with pretty little shells, some of which I bought for a stüver, and others of which I picked up myself. Notwithstanding the cheapness of this excursion, our fears as to the sufficiency of our funds were again roused, on the Wednesday morning, when we heard a Prince Gallizin making a tremendous uproar in the hotel about the shamefully exorbitant charges, and I made up my mind that Forstner would be obliged to pay a second visit to our friend the merchant, to negotiate another loan. However, when the bill came in, we were delivered from this fear, and when we went on board the steamboat, The King of the Netherlands, just in front of the house, we had still half a Wilhelmsd’or in pocket, which we exchanged on board for English money, but which, in this shape, vanished from our possession the moment we landed.
Our course up the Thames was greatly favoured by wind and weather. Everything was beautifully lighted up by the sun, so that we could recognize from afar every important edifice on the banks, and up and down the river went ships in great numbers, some with full sail, and yet the Englishmen on board told us that, comparatively, there were not many that day. From Gravesend to the Custom House, a whole world is disclosed to you; but a great view of the entire city cannot, of course, be had from the Thames, and to obtain this, I suppose, we shall have to mount up to the top of the Monument or of St. Paul’s. As yet I do not know what we are going to do this morning… …
[CCCCXLII.] Afternoon.
Everything, with the exception of the visit to the Prussian consul, came otherwise than we had planned, and time has run on so, that I have barely a moment to say that we have been in St. Paul’s—only in the lower part—and that neither in point of devotion nor of artistic taste have we been rewarded for the trouble.
[CCCCXLIII.] Sunday, 7th.
I do not mean to say that St. Paul’s is not beautiful, but the funeral service at which we were present was anything but beautiful; it was excessively dry, and the female mourners, who stood around the grave, were wrapped in black draperies, which are probably kept in the church for the purpose, for afterwards, when I saw them within the edifice, they were no longer clad in this manner. The clergyman read the service with great indifference, and the whole was very unimpressive. The church itself is, however, very imposing, and nothing can be more glorious and elevating than the monuments that indicate the gratitude felt by a whole nation towards single individuals; and there are here not only monuments to great heroes, such as Rodney, Nelson, St. Vincent (if these names should be unknown to any of you, look for them in the Encyclopœdia), but also to more subordinate characters, more especially young naval officers, who distinguished themselves by bravery and fidelity. The deeds of all are mentioned shortly in simple inscriptions, but their memory will be kept alive as long as this edifice, destined to withstand the power of ages, shall rear its head aloft… …
[CCCCXLIV.] Saturday, 13th.
… . What will you say when I tell you that, after all, I have been unfaithful to my determination, and that I have engaged to preach here to-morrow week? The first proposal of pastor Schwabe I triumphantly resisted, but Steinkopf conquered me yesterday, having surprised me by the sincere and earnest manner in which he entreated me to do so, when we were alone. He begged me not to give him a decisive answer until this morning; and before writing to communicate my assent, I have examined myself well, to ascertain whether vanity had any share in my motives. I believe, however, that I may feel quite easy in this respect, and more particularly because, as far as I have understood, his congregation mostly consists of persons who do not belong to the upper and highly-educated classes. In my plans, however, it makes an entire upset.
[CCCCXLV.] Wednesday Evening, 17th.
I dined to-day in the country with a thoroughly English family, but, unfortunately, one without children. We were only four, and I was obliged to help myself through with the very little English that I know. Even here, this Mr. G—— is a phenomenon, he being a banker, who not only possesses, but also reads Greek authors, and who is engaged in writing a history of Greece… . . You must rest contented with these few dry outlines, for I have here neither the time, the quiet, nor the conveniences necessary for writing. But the short notices in my memorandum-book will afford subjects for many a narrative when I shall be with you again. Once more, good-bye! I embrace you in spirit, dear mother, and all our loved ones. How delighted I shall be when I find myself journeying homewards! May you all, likewise, rejoice at the thought of getting back.
Your old father, SCHL.
In January, 1831, Schleiermacher, who had until then never received any decoration, was honoured with the Order of the Red Eagle (third class), and he interpreted this as a sign that the favour of the King, of which he had long been deprived, had been restored to him. The great value which he placed upon this, and the importance with which, in consequence, he invested an event that would otherwise have had no significance in his eyes, is shown in the subjoined letter.
Schleiermacher to the King of Prussia.
[CCCCXLVI..]
In graciously bestowing upon me the Order of the Red Eagle, your Majesty has given me a proof of your favour that has caused me a degree of emotion such as few things could call forth, and that has arisen like a bright star over my old age, and will shed a lustre over the future, the reflection of which will serve to dispel much of the gloom of the past. Although I am deeply conscious that nothing that happens to me personally, however much I may feel honoured and gratified by it, can increase the sentiments of reverential fidelity and devotion which I entertain for your Majesty, nor the pure love which I bear to my beloved country, the well-being of which has been so greatly promoted by your Majesty’s Government, whose efforts in this direction have been signally blessed by God, I can, nevertheless, not refrain from laying at your Majesty’s feet the expressions of a grateful heart. Henceforth may everything that I conscientiously endeavour to effect, for the good of the Evangelical Church, in my capacity as clergyman and as teacher in the university, be so fortunate as to secure the gracious approbation of your Majesty.
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